Binding ~ Faux Piping! (Plus a not-so-secret Formula!)

Try this great binding hack!

"If the Hat Fits" from the Buggy Barn book, Frightfully Crazy

Here's a way to pretend you went to all the work of adding piping to your binding without all the effort.  "If there's an easier way...", that's my motto.  This is also an easy finish for a lone UFO block - Make a pillow!

Cut:

1-1/4" x width of fabric strips of main print - what you'll see as the outer binding print.

1-1/2" x wof strips of accent print for flange/piping (NOTE:  1/4" difference creates a 1/8" flange)

You'll need 1 or 2 strips for a pillow, 5-6 strips for a baby quilt, 6-8 for a lap quilt, 8-10 for a twin/queen and 10 to 12 strips for a king size quilt.

OR ...
Want to know how to precisely calculate yardage for any binding?  Here's the Mathematical Formula:

* Measure the perimeter of your project and add 12 inches for mitered corners and final seam.

2 x (W + L) + 12 = P

* Divide that number by 40" (usable inches of width of fabric) to calculate the number of strips to cut; rounding up to the nearest whole number.

P / 40 = N

* Multiply that number by the width of strips desired to get the yardage amount.  In this case:  

N x 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" = Y

* Round up to the nearest 1/8 yard (0.125) or 1/6 yard (0.167)

Yardage      Decimal Conversion     Inches

(I keep all these quilter's math formulas and charts in my handy pocketbook  Quilter's Bible)

You're welcome!  Now, let's make it!

1)  STITCH all 1-1/4" main print strips together, end to end, using a diagonal seam to join, pressing seams open.  Repeat for all the 1-1/2" accent print strips

2)  STITCH to join both long strips together, using a 1/4" seam allowance.  This makes your binding 2-1/4" wide.  Press seams toward the main print, unless you want to fill your "piping", then press toward the accent color.  You may want to trim seam to 1/8".

3)  PRESS pieced binding in half, lengthwise.  See how the accent color peeks over at the folded edge?  YAY!

Use this neat little trick to roll and store binding.  Here's a little video:

Roll and store binding

Tuck the end in the back, and it will stay in place until needed.

Pull binding out of the center and it's ready to apply to the quilt.

If it's rolled like this, the binding doesn't twist or roll away.

4)  STITCH binding to quilt BACK using a 1/4" seam allowance.  Place binding with the right side of the main print facing the back side of the quilt.  Accent piece will be facing UP.

5)  MITER the corners as usual.  Stop stitching at 1/4" from the corner.  Remove from the sewing machine and clip threads.  Fold binding up to the corner at a 45-degree angle ↓.

Fold binding back down, keeping the folded edge evenly aligned with the previous corner, and realigning raw edges together ↓.  Begin stitching at the folded edge and continue around the quilt, mitering at each corner.

6)  FINISH the final mystic seam joint for a continuous, non-lumpy binding.  Here's a link to the tutorial: Binding Tutorial < or see in in my first (self-conscious, terrified) VIDEO <.

7)  Bring binding around to the front of the quilt and PIN the corners to form identical miters.

 NOTE:  I always take a minute to PRESS the binding away from the quilt, before folding the binding around to the front, getting a nice crisp fold at the seam.

8)  STITCH in the DITCH.  Pivot at the corners.

I'll sometimes use a stiletto or seam ripper to hold the binding in place as I stitch.

I've recently tried using those Clover Binding Clips, and those seem to work well too.  OR - skip the pins and the clamps and just get out the glue stick!  That works as well as anything!

Overlap beginning stitches, and you're finished!

 Hope you enjoyed this tutorial!  And maybe another UFO checked off the list...