Zip It! Lesson III ~ Invisible Zipper Installation

"Snidely Ziplash"

So glad you could join me for another zipper tutorial as we conquer the fear of the elusive INVISIBLE ZIPPER!! For years I avoided even trying to install an invisible zipper. According to my seamstress sister, so much easier to install than a centered or lap zipper... NO TOPSTITCHING! Nice. We'll see just how simple installing an invisible zipper can be! Let's get started!

Supplies

* An invisible zipper 

* Fabric pieces where zipper will be placed 

* Lightweight fusible interfacing

* Measuring tool

* Removable marking tool

(I used a Pilot Frixion pen, marks disappear when ironed)

   

 Also extremely helpful:  Zipper Foot, and an Invisible Zipper Foot attachment.

If your machine did not come with an invisible zipper foot, it may be purchased separately.  Or find a generic invisible zipper foot.  These are around $3 and come with a varying size shank to fit most machines. Instructions: Prepare the zipper. If you are using your regular zipper foot, press the zipper tape so the coils lie flat. This is helpful, but not necessary with an invisible zipper foot. 

Cut your zipper to length, if necessary, and zig-zag over coils for a zipper stop 

 Prepare the fabric. Fuse lightweight interfacing along edges where zipper will be installed.

 

Draw or press a line at 5/8" (or required seam allowance) on right sides of fabric.

 

Pin zipper to fabric edge, right sides together, 

aligning zipper coils with 5/8" drawn seamline.  

Zipper pull should be face down. 

 

Stitch. Adjust needle if necessary, and stitch close to zipper coils, 

removing pins as you get to them. 

 Stitch until the presser foot reaches the zipper stop. 

Backstitch at beginning and ending. 

Close zipper to test if it zips smoothly.

 

Align and pin remaining zipper edge in place, 

right sides together, zipper pull again facing right side of fabric.

   

 Adjust needle again if necessary to stitch close to zipper coils.

 **Stitching from top to bottom each time will help to keep fabric aligned,

 if trying to match plaid or motif. 

 

4) Finish lower seam: Close zipper. Pin to align remaining seam allowances together.

 Change to your regular zipper foot. Stitch as close as possible to the zipper's 

ending stitches and continue to stitch seam to the bottom of garment.

 

Press seam open. 

  

Stitch zipper tail to seam allowances only. 

 By the way, it's a good idea to clean-finish seams 

(serge edges, overcast, zig-zag, or trim with pinking shears).

 

Give a light press over the zipper, and your installation is complete! 

You can hardly tell the zipper is there.  The blue thread shows through a bit 

on the sample, but otherwise the seam should appear... well, "seamless."

 

Troubleshoot: If zipper will not glide easily, stitches may be too close to the coils.  

If you can see the zipper tape, stitches may be to far from the coils. 

If the plaids or motifs don't match up like you wanted, rip it out and do it again.  

Or just call it good, whatever you can live with. ;)  

Your garments will have that professional finish!

 

Vogue gored skirt pattern #V7910  featuring Riley Blake Designs' Yellow Ombre' Dots 

Made by Lauren Stott (yes, my cute daughter!)

That concludes this mini-series on zipper installation.  Check the previous links listed below, and stay tuned for more fun tutorials to come!

 

Zip It! Series: Zip It!  Lesson I ~ Easy Exposed Zippers Zip It!  Lesson II ~ Easy Lapped Zipper

---

1. Great toot. It's been many years since I've done any clothing projects. This is a great refresher. Thanks. Ps. Good job, Lauren. Your skirt is kick' in!

   by Lcdaman 
   August 06th, 2013 at 4:52 p.m.
2. are you kidding me...look at those circles lined up perfect....xxxx

   by mdm samm
   August 09th, 2013 at 8:07 a.m.

Zip It! Lesson II

EASY LAPPED ZIPPER CLOSURE for PILLOWS
   

This pillow was featured in the recent Half-Hexie ruler "How-to" video seen >>HERE

 A lapped zipper is a great way to finish a pillow back, hiding the zipper teeth and making it easy to change out the pillowform, especially for laundering, etc.

   

 So, here's another quick lesson in taming the scary little monster...



Project:  DECORATIVE PILLOW

Supplies: 

* Pillow top, 18'' square
* Backing, 1 Fat Quarter (approx 18" x 21")

* 20'' Polyester zipper

(I like my zipper a couple inches longer so I can clip off the metal hardware.) 

* 2 @ 2-1/4" x width of fabric strips for binding 

* 18" to 20" Pillow Form

My Mom had a collection of a bunch of notions in her sewing room.  These old zippers recently came to live in my sewing room.  Perfect!

Instructions:
1)  Cut Backing. 
Measure your pillow top.  Backing pieces will be cut the same width as the pillow top.  Determine the length of your backing pieces by adding 2"  to account for a 1-inch lap.  This would apply to any size pillow.   I cut my backing piece at 18" x 20".  Then I made a slice where I wanted the zipper to go, and cut two sections measuring 18" x 5, and 18" x 15". 

 

APPLY zipper to top of larger backing piece. With right sides together (zipper face down; fabric right side up), center and align the edge of the zipper tape with the upper edge of the fabric as pictured; PIN in place. 



Zig-zag to finish the raw edges and basically baste the zipper to the fabric. 

 

Once that step is complete, flip the fabric back and fold right along the edge of the zipper teeth; PIN into place.  Change your presser foot to the ZIPPER FOOT, then STITCH through all layers, about 1/8" away from zipper teeth. 

 

 2)  APPLY Zipper to remaining back piece.  



Switch the presser foot back to the regular foot, then Zig-Zag stitch the edge as before. 

3) FORM LAP (flap, overlap, etc.)

 

 Align top edge of backing with top edge of pillow to form the lap or overlap.  Without catching the pillow front, pin the flap into place to prepare for top stitching. 

 

Switch to the Zipper foot again, and STITCH in place.  The foot should glide alongside the zipper teeth if top-stitching on the right side of fabric, or move pins to the back side and stitch on the wrong side so you can see the zipper.  

FINISH. Align backing wrong sides together with pillow top and PIN.  Stitch together, or use a Zig-Zag stitch to secure edges and prepare for binding.

 

 BIND the edges of the pillow.  Need a refresher?  Watch this VIDEO tutorial for Machine Binding, or here's a step-by-step Binding Basics TUTORIAL.

 

This pillow top used 25 5" squares featuring So Happy Together fabrics by Deena Rutter along with RBD Basic Shades and Solids, cut with the 5" Hexie-Half ruler.  One 2-1/2" x width of fabric strip was used for the side finishing pieces. Hope you enjoyed this tutorial - Zippers truly can be our friend! Our next zipper we'll tackle in this series?  INVISIBLE ZIPPERS!!   
Until then, Happy Quilting!

 

Comments from RBD

1. Thank you for an excellent tutorial. A sewer/quilter for 40+ years and this is truly one of the clearest, easiest zipper instruction I've seen. Kudos. By the way, watched your portable UFO project. On my short list of things to make. Haven't been able to find where I can get Riley Blake laminated cotton...the search goes on. (Like I don't have a bazillion other things I could find to do). Thanks again. 

   by Louise
   July 01st, 2013 at 4:18 p.m.
2. Thank you for this tutorial! I would like to ask, if you have the correct size zipper and can't move the zip pull out of the way like you did, how do you sew beside the pull? I always have to bump out because the back end of the zipper foot is too wide.

   by Kathleen
   July 02nd, 2013 at 12:35 p.m.
3. Good question, Kathleen. I know what you mean.  If I am using the correct size zipper and can't cut off the hardware, I usually stitch a bit further away from the teeth so that any visible stitching line can be straight. I've found that I can usually move the zipper pull if I stop with the needle down a few inches before the zipper pull, and lift the presser foot. Then with the needle still planted, pull the zipper open past the needle. Lower the presser foot, then continue stitching to the end. Hope that helps!

   by Deonn
   July 13th, 2013 at 3:04 p.m.
4. Great easy to follow tutorial. Thanks!

   by Christine Hart
   November 11th, 2013 at 7:28 p.m.
5. I just "stumbled" upon your blog and love it! Thank you so much for your tutorial on inserting a zipper in a pillowcase. The instructions were very clear, so I will be using your technique for new springtime pillows for our sofa... Many thanks. Ande

   by Ande

ZIP IT!  Lesson I - Easy Exposed Zipper Installation
ZIP IT! Lesson III - Easy Invisible Zipper Installation

Zip It! Lesson I

Easy Exposed Zipper Installation! 

Riley Blake Designs ' Chevron Laminate Cotton

Have you ever been terrified by a zipper??  Ever found yourself using velcro, buttons, snaps, duct tape, anything to avoid having to install a zipper? I have to admit, there was a time when I felt mocked by a zipper's little teeth and sticky-outie-tongue, but there is really nothing to fear.  The snarly little beast can be tamed with a little practice.
  

Project:  ZIPPERED POUCH

Supply List:
* 7" polyester zipper (or two)
* 2 @ 5-1/2" x 8-1/2" rectangles of fabric (I used laminate, but any fabric will work!)
* Fabric for pocket lining (optional)
* Zipper Foot for your sewing machine
* Glue Stick (optional)
* 48" Shoelace

1)  With right sides together (zipper face down; fabric right side up), center and align the edge of the zipper tape with the 5-1/2" edge of the fabric as pictured; Pin.
    

The zipper should extend beyond the length of the fabric, making it easier to get the zipper where you want it without having to deal with the zipper hardware.

Stitch the zipper in place with a basting stitch.  I sometimes use a glue stick to apply the zipper, or zig-zag stitch if I also need to finish the fabric edges to keep from fraying.
   

Once that step is complete, flip the fabric back and fold right along the edge of the zipper teeth; pin
into place.

   

 Using your zipper foot, edge-stitch about 1/8" from the teeth.

   

 Repeat the same steps on the opposite side.  Unzip to top-stitch if necessary.

See how easy that was, with the zipper pull and stops out of the way?

Secure the ends of the zipper by stitching carefully with a couple of zig-zag stitches for new top and bottom stops, making sure the zipper pull is below the top stop, then trim off zipper ends.

   

The bag is ready to finish, but I wanted to add a side pocket, so here's how to install a zipper without stitching into a seam. I use this method mostly for pockets.

Mark a line where you'd like your zipper, then stitch a rectangle slightly larger than the width of zipper teeth, about 3/8" x length desired.

 

Clip center line and clip "Y" to corners as pictured.

 

Press under to form opening along stitched edges.  

Use a glue stick to keep in place if necessary.  

Center zipper, pin, and TOP-STITCH along the edges through all the layers. 

 

You may need to stop and scoot the zipper pull out of your way as you stitch.  Back-stitch carefully over zipper coils at each end. To create the pocket, stitch another layer of fabric to the top edge of zipper tape, with the right side facing the back side of the pocket zipper.  I zig-zagged the fabric in place.  Since this pouch is so small, the edges can be stitched into the side seams to finish the pouch construction.

   

Pin shoelace ends into place.  

Push the shoelace out through the top zipper opening and trim edges even. 

Pin right sides together.   Be sure to leave your top zipper open for turning!

 

Stitch three sides, back-stitching at the shoelace straps, and stitching carefully over the zipper coils.  Zig-Zag or serge raw edges to finish. Turn pouch right side out and use a dull chop stick to push out the corners.  Trim shoelace ends and add a nice zipper pull or ribbon to finish.

 

 Ready to stow your checkbook, coin purse, cell phone, sunglasses, etc.;
sling over one shoulder and go.
   

Here's a sample of a decorative zipper with exposed teeth on my "Snippets" bag.  Larger plastic teeth/coils would make it difficult to trim off, so it's necessary to use the exact size zipper. Adds just the right touch, don't you think?

 

 I also like the look of a zipper with the tape exposed too.  Yeah, that's me, Halloween, 1999.  Feelin' groovy in an old polyester dress made in the early 1970s.  And yeah, it was a metal separating zipper that ran the whole length of the dress.  So Stylish!

   

The other day at a little fashion show I saw the entire zipper top-stitched on the outside of the back of a skirt, dress and shirt as a design feature!!  Let's just say it works if the fit is right and the zipper is not too heavy for the fabric it's applied to.  Zippers are making a reappearance as a fashion detail!  

I think that about covers "Exposed Zipper" installation.  You can find Basic zipper instructions for centered application included in the zipper packaging.

   

Nancy Zieman (Sewing With Nancy) also has a couple of great tips for this, including a pinless technique to save time and effort. Here's that link: CENTERED ZIPPER. 

 This is the first in a series of Zipper tutorials.  Next time we'll look at Lap or Fly Zippers, then we'll tackle Invisible Zippers (my sister's favorite)!  Meanwhile, you can find more tips and other Snippets from my sewing room here at Quiltscapes! 

 Happy Sewing!

1. Great tutorial - love to share these

   by Deborah
   March 04th, 2013 at 4:39 p.m.
2. Just love your tutorials. They are so well written and understandable. Thank you.

   by Bonnie
   March 04th, 2013 at 5:37 p.m.
3. thank you !

   by tara-scrap
   August 10th, 2013 at 9:27 a.m.