Best Tips for sewing with Plush Fur (Minky)

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 Here are my best tips for sewing with this cuddly plush fur fabric; cutting, pinning, sewing, pressing, quilting, binding, care and cleaning.

1) Cutting:  Use a rotary cutter with a sharp blade, a mat, and a long ruler for better, straighter cuts.  You may get a little fur flying after each cut, so gently scoop up the fabric then shake it out over a garbage can, or take it outside to shake it off!  Use a piece of batting, a dry washcloth or your hand to wipe off the little bits of fur left on the cutting board.  Then get out the broom, dust-buster or vacuum to get the rest off the table, floor, your hair, your clothes, the bottom of your socks…

My hubby had a good laugh as he came down to the sewing room and snapped this pic.

2) Pinning:  Face it, this stuff is so soft it’s slippery!  Basically, pin it to death.  This stuff also has a "nap", especially noticeable with a shorter length of fur.  Feel it with your hand to determine which direction you want the nap to run.  One direction is smooth, and the opposite direction will make the pile stand up against the grain.  If pinning is not sufficient, try using a glue stick to baste edges together.

3) Sewing:  Use a bit larger needle, size 90/14, ballpoint.  For stitching, refer to #2.  Pin, pin, pin. Remember the nap?  This stuff will often slide in the direction of the nap.  When stitching two layers together, it helps if the nap is traveling in the same direction.  If you are sewing minky to a layer of cotton, put the minky on the bottom so the feed dogs can do their job.  Sew slowly and carefully so as not to stretch the edges.  You may need to tuck in the furry ends so you can easily see to line up the edges.   And, if you happen to have a walking foot with upper feed dogs to help feed the fabric under the needle evenly with the lower feed dogs, you will have even better luck sewing this stuff.  If you are piecing large pieces together, say for a quilt backing, stitch along the lengthwise grain if possible, as it has less stretch.  Again, check the nap, then pin, pin, pin!  Or go and buy the 90-inch stuff for your backing, relatively new on the market.

4) Pressing:  NOT recommended.  Since this product is polyester, it should be relatively wrinkle-free.  Don’t iron directly.  Press from the back with a damp press cloth or piece of muslin.  If you iron on the front, you may end up with an iron-shaped imprint.  Also, try to resist ironing super-textured plush fur such as dimple dots or rosebuds, as ironing will flatten out the texture.  Trust me.*Ü*  You may also throw it in the dryer with a damp cloth on low heat for about 10 minutes to release the wrinkles.

5) Quilting:  I admit, I love quilting with this stuff because it really shows off the machine-quilting! I also prefer to quilt a little less densely so the loft can come through and be truly cuddly, like a warm hug from grandma.  When setting up for longarm quilting, keep the lengthwise grain (selvage edge) at the sides with the stretchy cross-grain pinned at the top and bottom.   Use lots of pins, with minimal space in between, say every 1" to 1-1/2".  Make sure the nap is vertical, heading from top to bottom of the quilt, so when you take up the quilt you're not going against the grain. If quilting on a domestic machine, spray-baste or pin-baste your layers together and quilt using a walking foot.  For free-motion quilting, drop the feed dogs and use a darning foot.  Quilt with confidence, you'll love the result! 

6) Binding:  Quilts using plush fur may be bound with regular double-fold cotton binding, single strips of minky, or self-bound by bringing the backing around to the front.

This binding ↑ is made with 2" single-layer strips.  Join the strips to make the length you need, then apply to the back of the quilt using a 1/2" seam allowance.  The corners are mitered, and the binding is brought around to the front and machine-stitched using a serpentine stitch.  See my plush fur binding tutorial HERE.

 

Again, a walking foot is very helpful.  When applying the binding, be careful the quilt doesn't stretch too much on the stretchy edges, then be careful the binding doesn't stretch too much on the lengthwise edge.   

7)  Care & Cleaning:  This product may be washed and comes out just as luscious as before it went in the washer.  It doesn't shrink or fade, pill or shed.  Machine-wash cold, tumble-dry low, or hang to air dry.  Do NOT use fabric softener.  Instead, a dryer sheet is sufficient to take out any static. Keep it clean and it will last forever.

Happy Sewing!

Plush Fur Binding

That nip in the air makes me want to grab a cozy, furry quilt!  

Have you sewn with Minky or Cuddle fabric?  It's a poly plush fur fabric that comes in varying lengths and designs of furry goodness that's hard to resist.  I've sewn with it a bit, and quilted it a lot.  The key is pin, pin, pin, and if you aren't sure it won't stretch or slide, pin some more!

My favorite product is Shannon Fabrics' Cuddlesoft.  It has a little stretch, but usually only cross-grain.  I pin it to my longarm frame with the selvages along the sides then I pin the cut edges at the top and bottom leaders with extra pins to control the stretch.  I love quilting on this stuff for a quilt backing - it really emphasizes the quilting and kids of all ages can hardly keep their hands off it's soft goodness!

Here are some tips for machine-stitching plush fur binding to a fuzzy creation.

Use a single layer for binding strips:  1-1/4" strips for a generous 1/4" finish.  Cut strips from the lengthwise grain - same direction as the selvage edge.  Join strips by overlapping short ends 1/4" using a zig-zag or mending/darning (serpentine) stitch.  On my BabyLock Melody, it is #18.  

If the fur is especially long, I'll sometimes zig-zag the quilt edges after trimming to control the bulk.

1)  Leave about an 8" tail and begin to stitch binding to the back of the quilt.  I use my quilter's 1/4" seam foot with the edge guide.  You may want to use a walking foot to be sure it doesn't stretch as you go.

2)  Stop a seam-allowance width from the edge, then backstitch a couple of stitches and remove from the machine; clip threads.

3)  Fold the binding back 45o to form the mitered corner...

4)  Fold the binding strip back down, and align the folded edge even with quilt edge, then align raw edges together.  Pin or clip to secure.

5)  Turn the quilt and begin stitching at the folded edge.  Continue sewing the binding in this manner, repeating the miters at each corner.  Stop about 8" from the beginning stitches.

6)  Overlap the beginning and ending tails and trim the ends so that one is just 1/4" longer than the other.  Join the seams with zig-zag or mending stitch for the final binding seam. then reposition the binding on the quilt and continue stitching, overlapping the beginning stitches.

6)  Next, Fold the binding to the front of the quilt.  It is not necessary to fold the binding edge under as it is polyester, and once the fur is brushed off, the edge will not unravel.   Form miters on the corners of the quilt front; pin to secure.

7)  Stitch the edge of binding to the front of the quilt, pivoting at the corners.  I really like the look of that serpentine stitch. Looks great on the back, too!

Keep a lint-roller, dustbuster, vaccuum, or garbage can  handy - the fur really flies!  After each cut, clean off your mat with a dry washcloth.  Shake out the quilt over a garbage can, or just take it outside and shake it off!

Happy Cuddling,

P.S.  For a wider binding, use 2" strips and 1/2" seam allowance.  These days, I join my minky strips together with a diagonal seam, then press open to reduce the bulk.  Luscious and lovely!

As the Fur Flies... Quilts & Comforters

I love the texture and feel of cuddly plush fur fabric, a.k.a. "Minky".  This soft-as-mink (hence the name) polyester fabric is finding its way in to more and more quilts.  I'm guessing the name "minky" is now synonymous with all brands of this type of product because that was the first brand available - much like we call all tissues "Kleenex".   There is a huge variety of colors, designs, textures, stretchiness and quality of this stuff.  I especially love it for backing on baby quilts and lap throws, as it comes 60-inches wide.  My preference is Cuddle Soft - I can always find the color I need, and can depend on the quality.  It's not as stretchy as other brands I've tried, so it works beautifully for longarm quilting.  That sounds like a commercial - but as always, it is my own, unsolicited opinion. And kids (big kids too, lol!) just can't keep their hands off!  Here are some samples.

Cuddle Buddies - Felix the Fox

Felix the Fox Cuddle(R) Blanket and Stuffie

When I spied this adorable "Cuddle Buddies" kit over at Missouri Star Quilt Co, I knew it was the perfect thing to make for my newest grandson, born just a month ago.  

Bear in Mind, Owl Always Love You

Aunt M Quilt Chronicles, Chapter II:  It's never too late to start quilting!

My sweet Aunt Marjory, now 84 years young, has decided to make a quilt for all nine of her
granddaughters.

Salt & Sand with Mr. Merman

Hi, all!  Thimblechaser here - taking over Quiltscapes' blog!

Look who washed up on shore!  Mr. Merman arrived just in time to join the Salt & Sand Blog Hop hosted by Carol at JustLetMeQuilt! 

Easy Applique' - Machine Blanket-Stitch

Cut it out, stitch it on, done!  For applique' the easy way, a blanket stitch is my go-to.  Many recent projects have had some sort of applique', and all of them used a blanket stitch.

Applique' turned this Simple Sadie quilt into something super sweet for my niece's new baby!  I love to take clues from a cute print and enlarge the motif.  

Simple Sadie quilt with Giraffe applique'

  (I also took clues from the print for the quilting motifs.  Fabric: Gigi Giraffes?)

A blanket stitch is formed with a straight stitch along the outer edge of the applique' followed by a perpendicular stitch in and out of the applique' shape.  

I think it gives a neat, clean finish to raw-edge applique'.  Don't have a blanket-stitch option on your machine?  Try another decorative stitch, blind-hem stitch, even a shortened zig-zag stitch.

Here are a few TIPS:
* You know that little hole on the hook of the bobbin case?  Now is the time to thread the bobbin through it!  This creates a little bit of extra tension so the bobbin thread won't peek through to the top.

Or you can reduce the top tension by a little.  Or do both.

* Test your stitches on a scrap of fabric.  If you find that it puckers too much, try using a stabilizer such as freezer paper.  Press the waxy side of freezer paper to the wrong side of your fabric.  The stitches will perforate the paper and you can tear it off afterwards.  Play with the stitch length and width to see what looks good to you.  I generally use a width of about 2.0 to 2.5 with the stitch length also at 2.5.

* I like to match the thread color to the applique', but some people use black thread overall for a rustic, folk-artsy charm.

* Position applique' using lightweight fusible web, glue stick, 505 fabric adhesive spray, or pin in place (see more ways to prep and stitch in my raw-edge machine applique' basics tutorial:  I ♥ Applique').

* If possible, use an open-toe foot so you can see where you're stitching.  If you position your needle to the right, it will be easier to gauge where the fabric should line up.

*Stitch in the ditch for the forward-moving stitches - the needle should hug the applique' edge for the outline stitch in the background fabric.  Aim for a perpendicular line from the edge for the horizontal stitches.  That can be a bit tricky on curves, but if the needle is down, it's easier to accomplish. Pivot with the needle in the "ditch", either before or after the horizontal stitch.  Sometimes, you just have to slow down and operate one stitch at a time.

* Some machines have a needle down option - very useful so you don't lose your position, especially when pivoting to change directions.  Otherwise, use the hand wheel to position the needle down.

*Lock stitches at the beginning and ending by holding the fabric so you get a couple of stitches in the same position.  If sewing around a shape, overlap the end stitches over the beginning stitches.

Little wall-hangings for choir seamstresses using scraps from our choir dresses.

Blanket-stitch applique' worked great on these ↑ polyester scraps.  It also worked beautifully on Minky plush fur too!  (See some faux fur tips HERE.)

A comfy, cuddlesoft comfortor for someone special.

The other day, my Aunt & Uncle came over to make some quilts for gifts, also blanket-stitch applique' projects.  Uncle Jack cut everything out and Aunt Margie got a good start stitching them down.  We used 505 basting spray to adhere the pieces.

They both rocked it!!  (See their final results HERE.)  Ü  Not bad for a couple of 83-year-olds!  Loved it!

Armed & Dangerous.

Happy Quilting!